Friday, 11 January 2013

Ogres aplenty

Three Ironbreakers, six bull pirates (who I’m probably most pleased with) and another 11 bulls are ready to go to war. I love it when a plan comes together!

Ogre pirates front view

Ok, I admit, there are still a few little things to do, but close enough damn it, I’ll finish those final bits when I paint my next batch of ogres - there are going to be many more on my desk over the coming months, ending up in a fairly titanic army.

So, how did I get them to this stage? Well, after finishing up the skin on these last time, my next step was to mask off the bodies so I could airbrush the legs without ruining the work I’d already done. For a long time I thought the best approach here was to dutifully mask an area with tape, carefully cutting it into shape where required. I was a fool!

Ogre bulls side views

Quick masking

Blu Tack or White Tack is your pliable, mouldable, awkward gap fillable friend! I still used thick tape around the top of the model, but at the line between skin and the overhanging part of the trousers, I pressed a thin layer of Blu Tack into place. For models this size it’s pretty easy to do with fingers, but I’ve done this on really small scale models using silicone tipped sculpting tools and even plain old fashioned cocktail sticks.

This is where a smart man would show photos. I tried to be a smart man and took them, then my stupid took over later in the day I deleted them. I’ll try and snap some next time I do this, but it’s hopefully self explanatory.

It’s a slightly time consuming process, but the time you’ll save in airbrushing more than makes up for it. Also, you can reuse the Tack quite a few times once you're done, the layer of paint over it does no harm.

Ogre bulls front view

I like to eat ice cream and I really enjoy a nice pair of slacks

I decided on four different colours for the trousers before painting. As I’ll be doing lots more Ogres, but with painting gaps in between, it’s good to keep a record of things so I can maintain some uniformity. This blog’s going to be great actually, because it will serve as a record of all that stuff.


  • Basecoat – Stegadon Scale Green
  • First highlight – Teclis Blue
  • Second highlight – Temple Guard Blue
  • Final brushed on detail highlight – Temple Guard blue and Ceramite White mix


  • Basecoat – Khorne Red and Stegadon Green mix
  • First highlight – Khorne Red
  • Second highlight – Wild Rider Red
  • Final brushed on detail highlight – Fire Dragon Bright


  • Basecoat – Death World Forest
  • First highlight – Nurgling Green
  • Final brushed on detail highlight – Nurgling Green and Ceramite White mix


  • Basecoat – Russ Grey
  • First highlight – Administratum Grey
  • Second highlight – Ceramite White
  • Final brushed on detail highlight –Ceramite White (It will brush on whiter than the airbrush coat!)

Ogre pirates side views

The brush on highlights weren’t added until I had removed the masking of course.

After this I worked some Drakenhoff Nightshade shade into the recesses of the ogre flesh to give depth and richness. While in the washing mood I worked on the metals and wood, using Nuln Oil to make the Mithril Silver base look suitably grimy and used and add depth to the wood. The Nuln Oil is applied pretty much everywhere, but then Reikland Fleshshade is added to the metal in much more controlled spots to pick out areas where rust would potentially form.

Sometimes I’ll go a step further with weathering pigments, but the ogres looked pretty good without (and I knew the final application of gore would finish things off nicely).

Ogre Ironbreakers side views

Blood – not too much, not too little

I love gore. It’s very rare that I will paint models that have that fresh from the factory look. I want them to have character and I think that comes through a sense of wear and tear. Grime and wounds and blood smeared across weapon blades adds life to models.

But, it’s an act of balance. Too much splatter and things will just look silly. I like the bloody hand accent on the ‘Eavy Metal ogres, so all of mine feature that. Their blades also have a good amount of grime splashed across them. But, beyond that, there are just the odd splash and splatter and a few wounds.

I’ll do a more in depth description of how to do good blood another time, but the quick tip here is buy some Tamiya Clear Red paint. It’s amazing stuff!

To do

I’ll airbrush the skull on the banner later as it was a bit late to go sticking my compressor on last night (I wouldn’t have been popular waking other folks in the house up at 4am!) and I need to add some bicarbonate of soda snow to the bases. Oh, and a Gnoblar needs to go in the crow's nest on the banner. I'll do him with the huge unit of Gnoblars for the army.

All in all, a good job for three days of painting I reckon. Clocking in at two models a day for 2013 in fact. 

Ogre Ironbreakers front view

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